Still Cranky

Food trends always make me nervous.  I can never understand why a food that’s been around forever, just lingering in the gastronomic backwaters, suddenly becomes all the rage. 

The latest example of this is the cupcake craze.  In the last year, several “cupcakeries” have sprung up in my neighborhood.  I assumed this was merely another precious Bay Area phenomenon. But no… according to a local “Cupcake Tasting Tour” website, “…the cupcake scene in San Francisco is still in its infancy compared to New York”.  So now there’s a cupcake scene.  Who knew?

The first time I spotted one of these cupcake emporiums, I had mixed feelings. 
On the one hand, there is something charmingly retro about cupcakes.
I brightened at the notion of something so simple and unassuming catching on with today’s generation.  If the twenty-something foodies in my neighborhood could stand in line just to buy cupcakes, things couldn’t be all bad.  However, it also made me suspicious; why cupcakes?  Why now?  Why were these long-overlooked baked goods suddenly all the rage?  So many questions…so few answers (if you have any theories, kindly share them with me).

The Cupcake People know there’s something cute and childlike about cupcakes.  So the cupcakeries are all about cute; the interiors feature lots of pink and pastels and cloyingly cute graphics.  But since they’re selling gourmet cupcakes, the cupcake makers must also elevate their modest cupcakes by adding an air of pretense to the whole experience.  One popular, local cupcakery includes this message on their website: “We appreciate your business and thank you for supporting our vision of an artisan treat.” 

The moment you attach the words “vision” and “artisan” to cupcakes, you know you’re in trouble.

But that’s how it is with food trends.  One day you’re eating Mac ‘n Cheese…the next day, you discover you’re really eating “Comfort Food”.  Krispy Kreme elevated the glazed donut to a religious experience.  And don’t even get me started about the coffee craze.

What’s next?  Lettuce tastings?  Toast bars?

Look, I have nothing against cupcakes.  I like a sweet, delicious
cupcake as much as the next person.  But there’s something a little too cloying and self-conscious about these cupcakeries.  A few years ago, the hip young things in my neighborhood wouldn’t have been caught dead eating cupcakes.  Now, they can’t get enough of them.  And when cupcakes get reviewed by cupcake connoisseurs who use words like “unique”, “flawed” and “memorable”, be afraid…very afraid.

Let’s just say it all leaves a bad taste in my mouth.